In praise of the Hong Kong finish

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I made this jacket with the intention of wearing it with the outfit I made for my cousin’s wedding, but they didn’t look quite right together in the end so I didn’t wear it on the day. It was an interesting project though, and I think I’ll get some use out of it.

But, STOP PRESS, the best thing about making this wee jacket was that I discovered my new favourite technique: the Hong Kong finish!

The Hong Kong finish is basically a neat way to finish seams when overlocking or french seams won’t cut the mustard. It involves sewing bias binding onto each side of a seam. As this jacket has a princess seam I think it gives the inside of the jacket a really cool look – in fact the inside of this jacket is way more interesting than the outside.

To learn how to do the Hong Kong finish I used a tutorial in my copy of ‘Sewtionary‘ by Tasia of Sewaholic but you can also find plenty step-by-step guides on this here world wide web.

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To make the jacket pattern I started with the Jackie pattern from La Maison Victor but I made quite a lot of changes to make it fit and I added a pleat at the back.

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I previously made a modified version of this pattern for the Sew It Up competition back in 2014.
This time round I changed the shaping at the front. Unfortunately I think I should have used some stronger interfacing as the fabric requires a bit more support to sit right. I feel it droops slightly.

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To jazz up proceedings I also used some red piping in the shoulder seams.

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Not a life-changing project by any means but always good to learn new techniques and do a bit of pattern engineering to modify patterns!
I particularly enjoyed working out how to do the facing which I mostly sewed by hand.

I’ll definitely be using the Hong Kong finish more in the future to make the insides of garments as nice as their outsides – and maybe even better.

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